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Omar-
 If you are printing your scales in a laser printer, you may find errors
caused by the laser process. The paper is "moist" from room humidity, and
then gets steamed (literally) and pressed against the fusion roller. This
causes enough physical change in the paper so that it may change in length,
i.e. from the nominal 11" in US-letter sized paper, by plus or minus 1/32"
to 1/16".
 In order to avoid this, you must use an engineering mylar or other
non-paper material designed for laser printing. Some of the synthetic papers
are actually latex based and no better in this regard. I'm not sure how
Kimdura (similar to Tyvek) competes but would think it falls in between
paper and mylar.

 With inkjet printers you have a different problem, the wet ink saturates
the paper and on most printers you can see it visibly pucker and distort
while it is coming out. This distortion is local and uneven, varying with
the ink. Again, a non-paper product is the answer, and any of the synthetics
should do. Since there is no fusion drum to steam them, there's a wider
range of materials to be found. Craft supply stores often have a wider range
than office supply stores, with special materials for stenciling, etc., made
of more durable or thicker stock. Setting the inkjet to "draft" or "economy"
mode so it uses less ink may also help.

 For the best precision in "custom printing" one offs, we used to work
directly with digital film imagesetters, which produce black image on
transparent film stock. That's very stable in all dimensions, but might cost
you $5-10 per page from a local imagesetting service bureau. (May shift a
bit if you get it wet though!)

   

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