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Thank you Marty

Lots of products I was not aware of. Regarding WD-40, I switched to
Boeshield T-9 more than a decade ago for hand and power tools. Better
rust inhibitor and it dries to a film coating that does not evaporate.
Have you tried it?

Your opinion of brass lacquer for objects that are to used seems to be
shared. Shellac has also been mentioned. Neither are particularly good
at resisting water or alcohol.

A lot of folks seem to have a high regard for Renaissance Wax         ,
either as the primary coating or over Incralac for outdoor sculpture.
Any feel for Renaissance Wax?

"Renaissance Wax was based on more stable microcrystalline waxes refined
from crude oil. Renaissance Wax also contains polyethylene waxes."
--Wikipedia.

I'll Google the products you mentioned. For now I'll try a trial run of
Boeshield T9, Boeshield T-9 under Renaissance Wax, and Renaissance Wax
only on portions of the yoke I stripped and polished. As I have those on
hand so nothing to lose.



On 4/18/2015 2:31 PM, Marty Lyons wrote:
> Been doing the same kind of preservation for years. I would not lacquer
> the brass or bronze. It makes it hard to fix when it ultimately gets
> chipped. If it was a museum piece that never gets handled I might
> lacquer it. I generally polish my brass, then apply a rust preventative
> oil such as CRC Marine -Stor engine fogging oil, RIG grease, Rustoleum
> Rust Inhibitor spray, Birchwood Casey Shield or VPI corrosion inhibitor,
> even WD 40 as it is poor for lubicating, but drys to a protective film.
> All these products are easy to re-apply after handling the peice. RIG
> Grease works well , but is messier than the others.
>
> 
> 
>
>

   

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